środa, 19 grudnia 2012

Daube à l'orange z przepisu prezydenckiej kucharki

Jeśli oglądaliście film "Niebo w gębie", na pewno będziecie wiedzieć, o kogo chodzi. Skończyłam właśnie czytać książkę, na której mógłby zostać oparty film, ale to książka tym razem pojawiła się po filmie. Danièle Mazet-Delpeuch, której historię, a właściwie tylko pewien epizod jej życia relacjonuje film, zachęcona przez jego twórców, dzieli się w niej swoimi ulubionymi przepisami i co ciekawszymi anegdotami z życia. 

 

Już w pierwszych rozdziałach podkreśla, że gotować nauczyła się z konieczności, przede wszystkim od swojej matki i babki, oraz ciotek, a później od spotkanych w życiu osób. Że gotowała w pewnym sensie z konieczności, po to, żeby wyżywić rodzinę i że była po prostu dobrze gotującą gospodynią domową. Właściwie nie lubiła, kiedy mówiono o niej mistrzyni czy szefowa prezydenckiej kuchni. Wcześnie wyszła za mąż i urodziła w krótkich odstępach czasu czworo dzieci. Pochodziła z bardzo skromnej rodziny, ale w jej domu zawsze hodowano drób i pielęgnowano przydomowy ogródek. Wiedziała więc, ile znaczą świeże i dobre produkty oraz potrafiła je docenić i właściwie wykorzystać. Zanim trafiła do prywatnej kuchni François Mitterand'a, w latach 70-tych, jako jedna z pierwszych we Francji wpadła na pomysł organizowania w Borderie, rodzinnym gospodarstwie, weekendowych warsztatów kulinarnych. Nazywała je « week-end foie gras et truffe ». Goście zjeżdżali w piątek wieczorem. W sobotę robiono pasztety, oprawiano foie gras, faszerowano gęsie szyjki, konfitowano udka i gęsie podroby oraz zlewano smalec. W niedzielę każdy wracał do domu z zapasem konserw na długie lata.

Kulinarne weekendy Danièle szybko okazały się sukcesem. Chętni zjeżdżali nie tylko z różnych stron Francji, ale także ze Stanów, a zapisywać się na kursy należało z wielomiesięcznym wyprzedzeniem. O Borderie pisano w Paris Match, a Danièle słynęła z niesłychanej gościnności i życzliwości. Kto raz postawił stopę w Borderie, wyjeżdżał stamtąd już jako « cousin ». Pomiędzy weekendami Danièle wychowała czwórkę dzieci. Po dziesięciu latach przyszedł kryzys. Urząd skarbowy doszukał się jakichś zaległych podatków. Suma była ogromna i Danièle słyszała zewsząd, że trzeba sprzedać. I nie potrafiła się jakoś z tym pogodzić. Jedna z byłych uczennic Danièle ze Stanów przekonywała, że pieniądze na ratunek Borderie znajdą się w Stanach, że to kraj ogromnych możliwości i że ludzie tam bardzo ciekawi tradycyjnej kuchni francuskiej. Danièle znała zaledwie kilka słów po angielsku i z trudem uzbierała na otwarty bilet do Stanów, ale postanowiła spróbować: przez blisko trzy lata z przerwami będzie pokazywać Amerykanom, jak zrobić tradycyjny pasztet i podać foie gras. Dzięki pokazom kulinarnym, prezentacjom, konferencjom uda si
ę jej spłacić zaległy podatek i odzyskać Borderie, gdzie urodził się jej dziadek, a babka zasadziła zaszczepione truflami sadzonki dębów. W Stanach pozna też wiele ciekawych osób, między innymi Julię Child oraz ludzi z bliskiego otoczenia Paula Bocuse'a, który wprowadzi potem Danièle do prezydenckiego pałacu. Choć krótki, nie będzie to łatwy okres w jej życiu. Danièle pochodzi raczej z lewicującego środowiska i spełnianie kulinarnych zachcianek prezydenta Republiki będzie bardzo krytycznie postrzegane przez przyjaciół i najbliższe jej osoby. Ale o tym opowiada już pewnie film. 



W książce znaleźć można wszystkie pokazane w filmie przepisy: la crème de Mémée, la tarte au chocolat de Julia, le chou farci au saumon... oraz wiele innych. Kilka już zdążyłam wypróbować. Dzisiaj przepis na daube à l'orange. Daube to potrawa, która przypomina słynne boeuf bourgignon, ale pochodzi z Prowansji. W przepisie podanym przez Danièle pomarańczowa kandyzowana skórka jest sympatycznym akcentem, dzięki któremu potrawa nabiera świątecznego charakteru i przepięknie pachnie. Polecam!

Daube à l'orange
(na 4-5 os
ób)
1 kg wołowiny (Danièle poleca karkówkę i ogon, miałam tylko karkówkę niestety) 

1 duża cebula 
2 marchewki 
150 g boczku 
2 pomarańcze 
3 ząbki czosnku 
butelka czerwonego wytrawnego wina 
sól i pieprz 
kilka ziarenek jałowca i goździków 
trochę cukru 
olej (Danièle podaje olej z pestek winogron) 
bouquet garni czyli zawinięte w liść pora gałązka selera, tymianku i listek laurowy

Obieramy cebulę i marchewkę, kroimy na kawałki. Mięso i boczek również kroimy na kawałki. Myjemy pomarańcze i dokładnie wycieramy. Specjalnym nożykiem ścinamy skórkę. Obieramy pomarańcze i wycinamy eleganckie ćwiartki. Dokładnie zbieramy sciekający sok.

Na rozgrzanym oleju podsmażamy partiami mięso. Odkładamy na bok. Na rozgrzany tłuszcz wrzucamy boczek, cebulę, marchewkę oraz ząbki czosnku w koszulkach. Krótko podsmażamy i dodajemy mięso. Przyprawiamy, wrzucamy jałowiec, goździki oraz kilka ziaren pieprzu. Zalewamy winem. Dodajemy bouquet garni oraz kawałki pomarańczy i sok. Przykrywamy i zostawiamy na wolnym ogniu na 3 godziny. 





Skórkę pomarańczową zagotowujemy w rondelku z wodą. Odcedzamy i jeszcze raz zagotowujemy. Z 40 cl wody i 75 g cukru przygotowujemy syrop i konfitujemy w nim powoli skórkę przez kolejne 30 minut na umiarkowanym ogniu. Wyjmujemy i dodajemy na 15 ostatnich minut do mięsa. Pozbywamy si
ę rozgotowanego bouquet garni.


To danie wyjątkowo smakowało nam z domowej roboty kluskami. Można je również podać z polentą albo po prostu z ziemniakami.

85 komentarzy:

  1. Daube zagościło na stałe w naszej zimowej kuchni. Mam na nie bardzo dobry przepis, ale wypróbuję też Twój. Podoba mi się ta kandyzowana skórka pomarańczy. Szczerze mówiąc zrobię Twoje daube lada dzień, bo jak mam dużo pracy (Święta!) to takie dania są najlepsze. Zastanawiam się czy ta książka będzie (albo już jest) wydana po polsku, bo z taką lekturą to nie poradzę sobie z moim francuskim. Przedświąteczne pozdrowienia Ci ślę. Świetny post.

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    Odpowiedzi
    1. Lo, z daube jak z naszym bigosem, ile gospodyn, tyle wersji ;) a do przepisow Danièle mozna miec zaufanie. Bede robic wkrotce zrazy po marsylsku, bitki wolowe faszerowane anchois, to dopiero bedzie jazda ;)

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  2. I jak zwykle mozna liczyc na ciekawe smaki i smaczki u Ciebie :)

    Pozdrawiam serdecznie!

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  3. Bardzo lubię tego typu potrawy :) Na pewno wypróbuję :)
    Pozdrawiam

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  4. Film widziałam, te dania to coś niesamowitego... A Ty prowadzisz świetny blog :)

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  67. Hey there, [Author's Name]! Just finished reading your article and I couldn't resist dropping a comment. First off, kudos to you for shedding light on Hellstar clothing. As a fashion enthusiast myself, I'm always on the lookout for emerging brands that offer something unique, and Hellstar seems to hit the mark perfectly. Your detailed breakdown of the brand's origin, ethos, and standout pieces really got me intrigued. It's refreshing to see a brand that not only prioritizes style but also emphasizes sustainability and ethical practices. That's a rare gem in today's fast-paced fashion industry, and I'm all here for it!

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  68. Hey there, sp5der! Just finished reading your article and I gotta say, it really hit the spot! Your insights into branding are spot on, and I love how you've managed to capture the essence of building a brand that truly resonates with your audience. As someone who's been tinkering with the idea of launching my own brand, your words couldn't have come at a better time.

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  69. Hey there, Hellstar Cloting 🌟

    I just finished reading your article and I couldn't help but drop a comment. First off, let me just say how much I adore your brand and the vibe you bring with every piece you create. It's like you've captured the essence of cool and injected it into your clothing line. As someone who's all about expressing themselves through fashion, stumbling upon brands like Hellstar truly feels like hitting the jackpot.Your attention to detail is seriously impressive. I mean, the quality of your materials combined with those unique designs? It's a match made in fashion heaven! And can we talk about how your pieces somehow manage to be both edgy and timeless at the same time? It's like you've cracked the code on creating wardrobe staples that stand out from the crowd while still being versatile enough to rock for any occasion. Keep doing what you're doing because you're definitely making waves in the fashion scene! 🌊✨

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  70. Hey there sp5der 🕷️

    Just finished reading your article and I gotta say, it's like you've cracked the code to effective branding! Your insights on brand building really hit home for me, especially as someone trying to carve out their own niche in the competitive market here in the USA. Your emphasis on authenticity is spot on – in a world filled with cookie-cutter brands, being genuine is what sets you apart from the rest. It's like you're speaking directly to me, encouraging me to stay true to myself and my brand's identity.And can we talk about your take on consistency? You couldn't be more right about the importance of staying consistent across all platforms. It's all about creating that cohesive brand experience for your audience, whether they're engaging with you on social media, your website, or in-person. Your article has given me so much to think about and implement in my own branding strategy. Thanks for sharing your wisdom, sp5der! Looking forward to more insights from you in the future. Keep spinning those webs of knowledge! 🕸️

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