środa, 19 grudnia 2012

Daube à l'orange z przepisu prezydenckiej kucharki

Jeśli oglądaliście film "Niebo w gębie", na pewno będziecie wiedzieć, o kogo chodzi. Skończyłam właśnie czytać książkę, na której mógłby zostać oparty film, ale to książka tym razem pojawiła się po filmie. Danièle Mazet-Delpeuch, której historię, a właściwie tylko pewien epizod jej życia relacjonuje film, zachęcona przez jego twórców, dzieli się w niej swoimi ulubionymi przepisami i co ciekawszymi anegdotami z życia. 

 

Już w pierwszych rozdziałach podkreśla, że gotować nauczyła się z konieczności, przede wszystkim od swojej matki i babki, oraz ciotek, a później od spotkanych w życiu osób. Że gotowała w pewnym sensie z konieczności, po to, żeby wyżywić rodzinę i że była po prostu dobrze gotującą gospodynią domową. Właściwie nie lubiła, kiedy mówiono o niej mistrzyni czy szefowa prezydenckiej kuchni. Wcześnie wyszła za mąż i urodziła w krótkich odstępach czasu czworo dzieci. Pochodziła z bardzo skromnej rodziny, ale w jej domu zawsze hodowano drób i pielęgnowano przydomowy ogródek. Wiedziała więc, ile znaczą świeże i dobre produkty oraz potrafiła je docenić i właściwie wykorzystać. Zanim trafiła do prywatnej kuchni François Mitterand'a, w latach 70-tych, jako jedna z pierwszych we Francji wpadła na pomysł organizowania w Borderie, rodzinnym gospodarstwie, weekendowych warsztatów kulinarnych. Nazywała je « week-end foie gras et truffe ». Goście zjeżdżali w piątek wieczorem. W sobotę robiono pasztety, oprawiano foie gras, faszerowano gęsie szyjki, konfitowano udka i gęsie podroby oraz zlewano smalec. W niedzielę każdy wracał do domu z zapasem konserw na długie lata.

Kulinarne weekendy Danièle szybko okazały się sukcesem. Chętni zjeżdżali nie tylko z różnych stron Francji, ale także ze Stanów, a zapisywać się na kursy należało z wielomiesięcznym wyprzedzeniem. O Borderie pisano w Paris Match, a Danièle słynęła z niesłychanej gościnności i życzliwości. Kto raz postawił stopę w Borderie, wyjeżdżał stamtąd już jako « cousin ». Pomiędzy weekendami Danièle wychowała czwórkę dzieci. Po dziesięciu latach przyszedł kryzys. Urząd skarbowy doszukał się jakichś zaległych podatków. Suma była ogromna i Danièle słyszała zewsząd, że trzeba sprzedać. I nie potrafiła się jakoś z tym pogodzić. Jedna z byłych uczennic Danièle ze Stanów przekonywała, że pieniądze na ratunek Borderie znajdą się w Stanach, że to kraj ogromnych możliwości i że ludzie tam bardzo ciekawi tradycyjnej kuchni francuskiej. Danièle znała zaledwie kilka słów po angielsku i z trudem uzbierała na otwarty bilet do Stanów, ale postanowiła spróbować: przez blisko trzy lata z przerwami będzie pokazywać Amerykanom, jak zrobić tradycyjny pasztet i podać foie gras. Dzięki pokazom kulinarnym, prezentacjom, konferencjom uda si
ę jej spłacić zaległy podatek i odzyskać Borderie, gdzie urodził się jej dziadek, a babka zasadziła zaszczepione truflami sadzonki dębów. W Stanach pozna też wiele ciekawych osób, między innymi Julię Child oraz ludzi z bliskiego otoczenia Paula Bocuse'a, który wprowadzi potem Danièle do prezydenckiego pałacu. Choć krótki, nie będzie to łatwy okres w jej życiu. Danièle pochodzi raczej z lewicującego środowiska i spełnianie kulinarnych zachcianek prezydenta Republiki będzie bardzo krytycznie postrzegane przez przyjaciół i najbliższe jej osoby. Ale o tym opowiada już pewnie film. 



W książce znaleźć można wszystkie pokazane w filmie przepisy: la crème de Mémée, la tarte au chocolat de Julia, le chou farci au saumon... oraz wiele innych. Kilka już zdążyłam wypróbować. Dzisiaj przepis na daube à l'orange. Daube to potrawa, która przypomina słynne boeuf bourgignon, ale pochodzi z Prowansji. W przepisie podanym przez Danièle pomarańczowa kandyzowana skórka jest sympatycznym akcentem, dzięki któremu potrawa nabiera świątecznego charakteru i przepięknie pachnie. Polecam!

Daube à l'orange
(na 4-5 os
ób)
1 kg wołowiny (Danièle poleca karkówkę i ogon, miałam tylko karkówkę niestety) 

1 duża cebula 
2 marchewki 
150 g boczku 
2 pomarańcze 
3 ząbki czosnku 
butelka czerwonego wytrawnego wina 
sól i pieprz 
kilka ziarenek jałowca i goździków 
trochę cukru 
olej (Danièle podaje olej z pestek winogron) 
bouquet garni czyli zawinięte w liść pora gałązka selera, tymianku i listek laurowy

Obieramy cebulę i marchewkę, kroimy na kawałki. Mięso i boczek również kroimy na kawałki. Myjemy pomarańcze i dokładnie wycieramy. Specjalnym nożykiem ścinamy skórkę. Obieramy pomarańcze i wycinamy eleganckie ćwiartki. Dokładnie zbieramy sciekający sok.

Na rozgrzanym oleju podsmażamy partiami mięso. Odkładamy na bok. Na rozgrzany tłuszcz wrzucamy boczek, cebulę, marchewkę oraz ząbki czosnku w koszulkach. Krótko podsmażamy i dodajemy mięso. Przyprawiamy, wrzucamy jałowiec, goździki oraz kilka ziaren pieprzu. Zalewamy winem. Dodajemy bouquet garni oraz kawałki pomarańczy i sok. Przykrywamy i zostawiamy na wolnym ogniu na 3 godziny. 





Skórkę pomarańczową zagotowujemy w rondelku z wodą. Odcedzamy i jeszcze raz zagotowujemy. Z 40 cl wody i 75 g cukru przygotowujemy syrop i konfitujemy w nim powoli skórkę przez kolejne 30 minut na umiarkowanym ogniu. Wyjmujemy i dodajemy na 15 ostatnich minut do mięsa. Pozbywamy si
ę rozgotowanego bouquet garni.


To danie wyjątkowo smakowało nam z domowej roboty kluskami. Można je również podać z polentą albo po prostu z ziemniakami.

162 komentarze:

  1. Daube zagościło na stałe w naszej zimowej kuchni. Mam na nie bardzo dobry przepis, ale wypróbuję też Twój. Podoba mi się ta kandyzowana skórka pomarańczy. Szczerze mówiąc zrobię Twoje daube lada dzień, bo jak mam dużo pracy (Święta!) to takie dania są najlepsze. Zastanawiam się czy ta książka będzie (albo już jest) wydana po polsku, bo z taką lekturą to nie poradzę sobie z moim francuskim. Przedświąteczne pozdrowienia Ci ślę. Świetny post.

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    Odpowiedzi
    1. Lo, z daube jak z naszym bigosem, ile gospodyn, tyle wersji ;) a do przepisow Danièle mozna miec zaufanie. Bede robic wkrotce zrazy po marsylsku, bitki wolowe faszerowane anchois, to dopiero bedzie jazda ;)

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  2. I jak zwykle mozna liczyc na ciekawe smaki i smaczki u Ciebie :)

    Pozdrawiam serdecznie!

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  3. Bardzo lubię tego typu potrawy :) Na pewno wypróbuję :)
    Pozdrawiam

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  4. Film widziałam, te dania to coś niesamowitego... A Ty prowadzisz świetny blog :)

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